WHERE IT ALL STARTED

It's no small wonder that in San Antonio down here in South Central Texas there are numerous Western wear retail stores and lots of barbecue restaurants and steakhouses where good Texas beef is served up to hungry patrons. A number of fine night spots, everything from glitzy "denim and diamonds" type clubs to down-home honky-tonks, featuring Country-Western music playing boot-scootin', two-steppin' tunes abound in our town. Ranch country surrounds the city with cattle ranching to the south, east, and west, and mostly sheep and goat ranching to the north, up in the Hill Country. When you come to San Antonio, you're going to see a lot of boot-and- Leviฎ-clad rancher types, pick-up trucks and SUVs, and broad brimmed hats. It's just a part of what we are.

And why wouldn't we be? Are you aware that this part of the United States, right around San Antonio is where it all began? When the Spanish missionaries arrived in 1718 and began to establish their missions along the San Antonio River, they brought herds of longhorn cattle, horses, sheep, goats, and burros with them. The Indian men of the missions were taught to ride, rope, and tend to the livestock. They were called "vaqueros," the Spanish name for herdsman or cowboy. A lot of Hispanic ranch hands on South Texas ranches still refer to themselves as vaqueros. These early cowboys became expert horsemen. They often amused themselves by staging "charreadas," and even to this day this Mexican-style rodeo event is still very popular in South Texas.

The first real ranch, Rancho de las Cabras, was located near present day Floresville, just a few miles south of San Antonio. Thousands of cattle, sheep, and goats were raised there, and the ranch served the missions of San Juan, Espada, and San Jose with meat. The National Park Service opens the property to visitors on the first Saturday morning of each month for a little tour. A move is underfoot for a complete restoration of the buildings that once housed the vaqueros and their families, the corrals, and the little chapel that was a part of the ranch complex. Today there are just a few crumbling walls.

Later on, when ranches had been established all over south Texas, a famous trail originated from here, running all the way up to Kansas, where cattle could be driven to the railroads, and thence shipped back east for sale to the slaughterhouses. This was before the railroads came into Texas.

Jesse Chisholm, who was half Scot and half Cherokee Indian, scouted and developed the trail, which was named for him. You didn't just herd a bunch of cattle together and start driving them north. It took more knowledge than that. Chisholm scouted out the best meadows for grazing and the best waterholes for keeping the animals healthy. He knew where the shallow water fords on the many rivers between Texas and Kansas were located and where the good camping spots were for the men to pitch camp; thus the big cattle drives originated. The ranchers herded their cattle together, and each rancher supplied a number of drovers, or cowboys. They branded the cattle with their individual brands, so they could be separated when they reached Kansas and the buyers waiting there to purchase them.

Well, at least most of the cattle were branded. One man, Samuel Maverick, had more land and more cattle than most of the other ranchers. He decided it was too much work to brand all his steers. So he said he'd help furnish drovers and equipment for the cattle drives, but he wasn't about to brand his livestock. No sir, his cattle would be left unbranded and separated from the rest of the herd when the reached Kansas. And today, the word "maverick" named after old Samuel is defined in Webster's dictionary as "an unbranded animal!" My paternal grandfather, William Schultz, was a drover on the old Chisholm Trail.

And did you know that barbed wire, often called "bobbed wire," the wire that fenced the West, was first introduced by John "Bet a Million" Gates at a demonstration he and his partner, Pete McManus, staged in 1876 right in front of the Menger Hotel in what is now downtown San Antonio? They built a little corral of the wire and proved to doubting Texas cattlemen that a herd of ornery longhorns could be kept under control by the fragile-appearing strands of prickly wire. Thus began a lucrative industry that made Gates rich and fenced the open ranges forever!

You've heard of chuck wagon dinners, haven't you? But did you know where and how the name came about? Right here in Texas, of course! Charles Goodnight, a West Texas rancher, drove his cattle north to Kansas via the famous "Goodnight-Loving" trail, which originated in West Texas. He adapted a covered wagon for the use of his trail-cook. The wagon was equipped with a flap that let down to form a table for food preparation and little shelves and compartments where the food, coffee, spices, and other items – such as dried beans, beef jerky, flour, sugar, and lard – were stored. Other ranchers caught sight of the handily-equipped wagon and soon copied it for their own cooks' use. Mr. Goodnight, whose given name was Charles, was called "Chuck" by his friends. The wagon became known as "Chuck's wagon," and today the type of food served on the range is referred to as "chuck wagon" food. If you stay in San Antonio very long you're liable to get a get sampling of it! And, at the Institute of Texan Cultures you can see a real, authentic chuck wagon that saw many a mile on the trail 'tween Texas and Kansas!

Now, you have a little of the historical background of why we ARE "Western." I just had to let you know South Texas really is the birthplace of cattle ranching! Now that you know a bit of this background, I hope you will enjoy your visit that much more!

Let's look at some things you can see and do and places you can eat and shop to make your San Antonio stop really special!

RODEO TIME

Any time is a good time to come to San Antonio, but FEBRUARY is the month when everybody in town "goes Western." The waitress at your favorite coffee shop, the checker at the supermarket, the room clerk at the hotel – all get into the spirit as they gear up for the annual Stock Show and Rodeo. This event goes on for two full, action-packed weeks. Everybody wears their boots, jeans, Stetsons, and Levi jackets. Trail riders come in from miles around and camp near the stock show grounds. Yep, they even have their chuck wagons with them!

Headliners from the field of Country-Western music perform at the daily rodeo performances, and world-class competitors ride and rope for big money prizes. You'll see both bareback and saddle bronc riding, calf roping, steer wrestling, bull riding (and those brahmas are MEAN!), and barrel racing. The grand entries are something to see with the beautiful Bexar County Sheriff's Patrol leading off. Their horses are matched palominos and their silver saddles and bridles are dazzling!

Sometimes country singer George Strait competes in the team roping contest. You see, George is a "for real" cowboy who lives here in San Antonio and owns ranch property west of the city.

A new arena for the 2003 rodeo season is also the site for the San Antonio Spurs home basketball games. On the show grounds during the Stock Show, rows of huge livestock barns house the finest stock in South Texas – beef and dairy cattle, horses, sheep, goats, swine, llamas, and much more. Livestock judging goes on non-stop for the full two-week event.

For the adventuresome, there are the usual carnival rides. Numerous free agricultural and horticultural exhibits educate and entertain, and a special petting zoo amuses the little folks. The Hall of Fame Museum portrays the livestock show history, and numerous pavilions display Western clothing, silver and turquoise jewelry, furniture, leather goods, and arts and crafts – all for sale, of course. Good food can be found at numerous booths and a great time can be had by all. If your travel plans include a February visit to San Antonio, don't miss this big event. You'll come away fully convinced that cowboys really do live in Texas!

GOOD FOOD

In order to help you to plan where to eat, I have rated the restaurants as best as I can by price category.

$ – Budget: meals are generally $10.00 or less
$$ – Moderate: $10.00 - $20.00
$$$ – Expensive: $20.00 +
$$$$ – Very Expensive: your wallet better be loaded!

Barbecue

Now, if all that walking around the stock show grounds made you hungry, you can choose from many great barbecue places to eat. Barbecue is one of our "national" state specialties. You just don't come to Texas without sampling some of the great sauces, brisket, sausage, and accompanying side dishes like beans and potato salad that make up a barbecue feast.

Here are some great places that you're sure to enjoy:

Bill Miller Bar-B-Q
$
http://www.billmillerbbq.comFor a listing of the nearly 50 San Antonio locations

You're never far from a Bill Miller's, a hometown business that serves delicious barbecued beef brisket, sausage, and all the fixings! And they have a great bakery as well.

Bun 'N Barrel
$
1150 Austin Highway
210.828.2829

For fifty years, this barrel shaped drive-in has been an old San Antonio stand-by for really good meat cooked to perfection, with all the trimmings. Lots of old timers still say it's the best!

Casey's
$
327 E. Nakoma, at Highway 281
210.490.1200

Great barbecue in rustic surroundings. I really love their minced barbecue sandwiches – no fat or gristle, just great beef in a yummy sauce!

Grady's Bar B Que
$
6919 Zarzamora, 210.932.2684
14100 Nacogdoches Road, 210.655.2333
4109 Fredericksburg, 210.732.3636
6510 San Pedro, 210.805.8036
7400 Bandera Road, 210.684.2899

The food at Grady's is superb! These people cater a lot of parties, and the food is reliably delicious. (They catered my husband's retirement dinner party!) The brisket is fork tender and their potato salad gets my vote for the best in town!

Rudy's Country Store and Barbecue
$
24152 IH-10 West, north of San Antonio at Boerne Stage Road in Leon Springs
210.698.2141
10623 Westover Hills Boulevard near Sea World
210.520.5552
15560 IH-35 North, northeast of San Antonio in Selma
210.653.7839
http://www.rudys.com

These folks make an incredibly good barbecue sauce (they call it "Sause")! They sell it at their restaurants, and personally, I can't cook without it. This is a laid-back, country atmosphere, and the barbecue doesn't get any better than this!

Tom's Ribs
$$
13323 Nacogdoches Road, 210.654.7427
2535 N.W. Loop 410, 210.344.7427
121 N. Loop 1604 at Stone Oak, 210.404.7427
http://www.tomsribs.com

Always crowded. Always good food. You'll find baby back ribs that are so tender the meat falls off the bones! Famous for brisket, sausage, catfish, and chicken. Named #1 barbecue restaurant in the 2002 San Antonio Express News Reader's poll. I personally love the "borracho beans."

Steaks

Steaks are also popular in cattle country, and San Antonio is home to many fine steakhouses. Here are some favorites:

Barn Door Restaurant
$$
8400 North New Braunfels
210.824.0116

Folks love the barn-like atmosphere, red checked tablecloths, and delicious steaks, seafood, and chicken. Enjoy examining the huge collection of "country" artifacts while you wait for your table. A favorite with locals for many years!

Josephine Street Steakhouse
$$
400 East Josephine
210.224.6169

Big signs in the windows of this small white building announce "Steak" and "Whiskey." A real Texas "roadhouse" atmosphere. It's a favorite with business men who lunch there. Excellent steak values.

Liberty Bar
$$
328 East Josephine, one block off of Broadway
210.227.1187

This is a favorite with locals. Wide, varied menu, touted as "serious food." Famous for steaks and seafood. Located in a funny, lopsided old building that "leans." Open seven days a week, and late on Friday and Saturday night. Serves a nice Sunday brunch.

Little Red Barn
$
1836 South Hackberry
210.532.4235

This place looks just like a red barn, but a big one – not a little one! It serves over 1,000 steaks every day. Menus for steaks, seafood, and chicken are written on the walls. I always order the chicken fried steak. Iced tea served in pitchers on the tables. The only complaint I ever heard about this place was "the service was too fast!" Very reasonable, it's a favorite with locals and with tour groups.

The Old San Francisco Steak House
$$$
10223 Sahara, just off San Pedro
210.342.2321
http://www.osfsteakhouse.com(search for location)

The ambience of a high class saloon on the Barbary Coast – including a beautiful girl on a red velvet swing! The walls are covered with interesting posters and memorabilia of old time San Francisco, and the kitchens turn out tender, perfectly-cooked beef. Huge chunks of Swiss cheese on every table are splendid accompaniments to the fine sour dough bread served at the restaurant. You'll enjoy their delicious steaks and seafood. Senior specials, too! Country music on weekends.

Outback Steakhouses
$$
16080 San Pedro Avenue, 210.490.7316
12511 IH-10 West, 210.696.4329
5552 Loop 410 NW, 210.509.4329
8131 Agora Parkway in Selma, 210.945.8100
http://www.outback.com(search for locations)

We first became acquainted with the Outback chain while visiting in Virginia. Now, they've moved "south," much to our delight! We like the "down under" atmosphere, great steaks, and oh! those "bloomin' onions!"

Ruth's Chris Steak House
$$$$
7720 Jones Maltsberger, just off Highway 281
210.821.5051
http://www.ruthschris.com(search for location)

The same sizzlin' steaks and pampered service as the downtown location!

Saltgrass Steakhouse
$$$
16910 US 281 North, 210.402.6621
11745 IH-10 West at Huebner Oaks, 210.641.6447
http://www.saltgrass.com(search for locations)

Both upscale steakhouses, "Texas to the Bone," with delicious food served in a casually elegant Southwestern atmosphere.

Texas Land and Cattle Company
$$
201 North St. Mary's, on the Riverwalk, 210.222.2263
60 NE Loop 410, 210.342.4477
9911 W. IH-10, 210.699.8744
http://www.texaslandandcattle.com(search for location)

These great restaurants turn out excellent steaks (so says my husband!) and wonderful seafood. The fried shrimp is my choice when I dine here, which is often! In an upscale "ranch-house" atmosphere, the food and service are excellent.

U R Cooks Steakhouse
$$
4907 N.W. Loop 410 at Loehmann's Village
210.647.4846

Here you pick out your steak and throw it on the huge grill, cooking it to your own liking! Or if you prefer you may pay a little more for the chef to do the cooking for you. Open for dinner weeknights and lunch and dinner weekends. Also serves some mighty fine seafood!

EXPERIENCING THE PAST

Now, to get a feeling of the real, old-time San Antonio, you might like to visit the Institute of Texan Cultures or the famous Buckhorn Hall of Horns Museum on Houston Street! They will help you understand this very important facet of our community.

The Institute Of Texan Cultures
801 South Bowie Street at Durango
210.458.2300
http://www.texancultures.utsa.edu/public

Look for the Tower of the Americas, which absolutely dominates the San Antonio skyline, and you'll find the Institute right at the base of the tower. The Institute is generally open Tuesday through Sunday, and the admission fee is small, even less if you're a senior citizen.

This fine museum contains many exhibits honoring all the ethnic cultures who came together to establish the great state of Texas. University classes are regularly conducted in the classrooms on the lower level, and historians take advantage of a fine reference and film library on the upper level. The Institute, which was the Texas Pavilion during the 1968 HemisFair, is now a property of the University of Texas and serves as a teaching arm of that institution.

Continually changing exhibits add to the allure of this fine collection. Well-versed volunteer docents work with the professional staff to point out the most interesting facets of the sections where they are assigned. Their enthusiasm and expertise are sure to add pleasure to your visit.

The Institute has a fine bookstore and gift shop where all sorts of tastefully selected items will tickle your fancy and just might deflate your pocketbook! The staff is extremely friendly, and you will come away feeling the Institute was well worth the time spent during your visit.

Buckhorn Hall of Horns
318 Houston Street
Just a couple of blocks from the Alamo
210.247.4000
http://www.buckhornmuseum.com

This rare collection of Western memorabilia was formerly located at the old Lone Star Brewery on Mission Road. It has been moved back downtown, where it all began many years ago when the Buckhorn Bar was the most famous "watering hole" in town! You will see the original old bar, complete with mirror and brass foot rails, where thirsty Texans toasted one another with Lone Star "longnecks" for many years! A collection of rare mounted bird and animal specimens from all over the world, fine saddles, the Texas Hall of History Wax Museum, and much more will fascinate you as one of the friendly guides takes you through the museum. A tasty lunch can be purchased here as well. Nominal admission charged. Open daily.

DRESSING WESTERN

If you like the look of our Western clothes – many tourists do seem to want to purchase boots, Western shirts, hats, and such during their San Antonio stays – we have a complete list in
http://www.yourneighbornetwork.com/satx/saethnicclothes.htm

There are listings of really good places for western clothing, jewelry, hats, and custom made boots. I also have listed some good sources for Mexican-ethnic clothing, a style that goes very well with Western clothing. One wonderful thing about both the classic Western wear and the Mexican and Guatamalan clothing favored by many San Antonio women – it never, repeat, NEVER goes out of style!

BOOT-SCOOTIN' ENTERTAINMENT

Now that you have the proper attire, how about a little Western nightlife? Here are a few suggestions:

Casbeers
1719 Blanco Road
210.732.3511

This favorite local spot offers live Country and blues music in an intimate, Texas setting. Beer, wine, and a good food menu – steaks, hamburgers and their famous enchiladas – are served. Open nightly.

Diamond W Longhorn Ranch
18725 Bandera Road in Helotes
210.695.4888
http://www.wildwestsanantonio.com

A good, home cooked chuckwagon supper with all the fixin's awaits you atop a scenic hill! You'll be entertained by good old-fashioned Western music, roping and six shooter acts, and the antics of a trained longhorn steer! Reservations are required.

Far West Rodeo
3030 North East Loop 410
210.646.9378

Real Texas nightlife! This HUGE Country-Western facility offers nightly entertainment for a nominal cover charge. There are two Texas sized dance floors, line dance lessons, a mechanical bull, and live music. There's even a pro-rodeo performance! Food and libations are available, of course!

Floore's Country Store
14464 Old Bandera Road in Helotes
210.695.8827
http://www.liveatfloores.com

A LOCAL hangout in a real country store setting, with a big outdoor cement dance floor where all the cowboys and cowgirls like to party come Saturday night! Fast foods, burgers, and sandwich fare are served along with beer, wine, and wine coolers. Live music on weekends; lots of big name entertainers – including Willie Nelson, Ray Price, Dwight Yoakum, Lyle Lovett, and Merle Haggard – have played here (and still do!). Cover charge varies according to what band or entertainer is appearing.

Hangin' Tree Saloon
18425 Second Street in Bracken
210.651.5812
http://www.hangintree.com

If you have your own transportation, you might enjoy an evening at a real honest to goodness Country Western dance hall. You'll probably be the only tourist there! Never mind, the friendly folks at the Hanging Tree will make you welcome right away. There's no cover charge except when there's a "big band" appearing. Come out any Friday or Saturday night. They have a beer and wine license. Thursday nights they have Karaoke, and the locally famous "Big Time Whoosits Garbage Band" plays every second Saturday. (You haven't lived till you hear them!) Geronimo Trevino, a popular musician on the local scene, frequently headlines there.

Leon Springs Dance Hall
24135 IH-10 West, at Boerne Stage Road
210.698.7072
http://www.leonspringsdancehall.com

Although this is a big local favorite, tourists are always made welcome. A small cover charge for live entertainment on weekends. Across the street you'll find the famous Rudy's Barbecue. This is a very versatile dance hall! It bills itself as "San Antonio's only family-oriented dance hall" and on Sundays, a local church congregation meets here!

Midnight Rodeo
12260 Nacogdoches Road
210.655.0040
http://midnightrodeosanantonio.com

Happy hour drinks are priced very low. Great gathering place, Country-Wwestern music, of course!

Wetmore City Limits
12329 Wetmore Road
210.494.7190

This little neighborhood gathering place offers wine, bottle beer, and a full bar. Happy hour offers reduced drink prices. Dancing to good Country-Western music.

MAKE YOUR OWN DISCOVERIES

Like any visit to any city, half the fun of travel is making your own discoveries. I've tried to give you some good guidelines. You're bound to find a dining place, a store to shop in, a night spot to while away the darkening hours that I haven't mentioned – or even discovered! But please know, you're most welcome in San Antonio, and you'll have fun here, in the place where the "Old West" began!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Docia Williams, with family roots deep in Texas history, has been a tour guide in San Antonio for nearly four decades. She has written several books on San Antonio and Texas.

ฉ 2003 Our Mail Network, LLC

The City of San Antonio does not warrant or guarantee the quality or condition of any of the businesses in this unique advertising format. The recommendations are based on writers' experiences and do not indicate an endorsement on the part of the city.

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