SAN ANTONIO AND "TEX-MEX"

A special part of visiting San Antonio is sampling the delicious regional cuisine. Mexican, or "Tex-Mex" as we call it, is high on the list of "must-trys" when you visit our city with its preponderance of Hispanic residents!

Our Mexican food is unique and quite localized. You won't find the same dishes, for instance, in Mexico, New Mexico, or California. Ours is a combination of Mexican and American Indian, with our own "flavor" added. If you aren’t familiar with Mexican food, you may enjoy sampling some of our local dishes. Because most Mexican restaurants serve such large portions, you and your companions might try ordering different dishes, and then share small portions with one another to determine what your tastes are.

The food, in spite of its reputation, is really not all that hot – IF you go easy on that little bowl of red salsa placed on the table at every Mexican eatery! Generally, you'll be served a basket of crisp corn tortilla chips, or "tostadas," accompanied by the sauce the minute you sit down at the table. Hint: I suggest you order ice water or iced tea right away! Some Tex-Mex aficionados like beer with their Mexican food!

There are numerous dishes you might enjoy sampling. I'll describe a few that are offered as standard bill of fare in most Mexican restaurants. If you see something on the menu you cannot identify, ask your waiter; he'll be glad to tell you what the dish contains.

MEXICAN DISHES

Chili Con Carne

Some folks call chili the unofficial "state dish" of Texas. Chili is reputed to have originated right here in San Antonio. The spicy meat stew, sometimes "stretched’ by the addition of pinto beans, was originally cooked in big iron kettles over open fires. The ladies who cooked and served the popular dish were referred to as "Chili Queens." People would go down to Military Plaza at night to sit at the big trestle tables and benches and have a bowl of the spicy concoction. I was told that many years ago, when refrigeration was unheard of, the peppery hot stew was concocted as a way to cover up the fact that the meat might be a bit tainted. (Don’t worry. The Mexican restaurants in San Antonio use fresh top Grade A beef today!)

A German immigrant named William Gebhardt, who lived in New Braunfels, put out the first commercial chili powder in 1896. He soon moved his operation to San Antonio, where he continued making the condiment and added canned foods to his line. In 1908 Gebhardt Foods put out the very first canned chili con carne!

The American Indians were the first to season their meat, which was either buffalo or venison, with the hot peppers. The spicy hot taste comes from chili powder, and some cooks also use cumin, oregano, and various other condiments. Most real Mexican cooks don’t add beans to the chili but serve the beans on the side. I’ll warn you in advance – eating chili can be habit forming!

Tortillas

Made of either corn meal or white flour, tortillas take the place of bread with Mexican food. Tortillas are served warm at the table; some restaurants bring out either corn or flour tortillas, but most give you a choice.

Breakfast tacos are popular breakfast treats served at many restaurants. Scrambled eggs – often "stretched" with hash browned potatoes, Chorizo (Mexican sausage), cheese, bacon, and other fillings – are rolled up in flour tortillas and generously fired up with hot salsa. (You can omit the salsa and they will still be delicious.)

When fried, corn tortillas are called "tostadas."

Enchiladas

Though often made with just cheese, beef and chicken are also popular fillings. Corn tortillas are filled with chopped onions and cheese and then rolled up, topped with enchilada sauce, more onions and cheese, and baked. Chicken or beef may be added. A Mexican meal mainstay, they usually come on a plate with Spanish rice and beans. Pinto beans, cooked, mashed, and fried in a little oil are called "refried beans" or "frijoles." Very fattening and absolutely delicious!

Tacos

Here comes the trusty tortilla, again. This time, deep fat fried into a crisp shell, filled with meat and chopped lettuce and tomatoes, then sprinkled with cheese. Sometimes a dollop of sour cream is added as well. And don’t forget a dab of salsa to make it nice and spicy!

Chalupas

More tortillas! A flat, fried tortilla, nice and crispy, is topped with refried beans, grated cheese, guacamole (that’s a mashed up avocado!), and chopped lettuce and tomatoes. Sometimes thin strips of beef or chicken top off the whole thing, which in reality is the Mexican version of an open-faced sandwich.

Burritos

Rolled up flour tortillas are stuffed with beef or chicken, grated cheese, and refried beans and then heated. Sort of a Mexican sandwich, and like everything else, delicious!

Fajitas

Thin slivers of meat (beef or chicken) are grilled to perfection, served with flour tortillas and a hot sauce concoction called "Pico de Gallo." Usually this consists of chopped tomatoes, cilantro, jalapeno peppers, and onions. Sometimes grilled onions and green peppers accompany them. The meat is rolled up in the tortillas and served with the accompanying relish, which can be very HOT! Fajitas are great favorites with local residents. The aroma will absolutely drive you crazy!

Mexican Drinks

During summer months, you'll find vendors selling "raspas" in front of the Alamo and down at the Mexican Market. These are cups of shaved ice topped off with sticky sweet fruit flavored syrups. They are called "sno-cones" in other parts of the country. Another Mexican fruit drink that is delicious is an "aqua fresca." This is fresh fruit, chopped up fine and run in a blender with water and sugar. I absolutely adore cantaloupe or watermelon aqua fresca!

If you like a cocktail pick-me-upper, you’ll want to try a margarita while you are in San Antonio. Most Mexican restaurants serve margaritas. They're made with tequila and varying amounts of lime juice, triple sec, and crushed ice; the rim of the glass is usually dipped in salt. Margaritas have a refreshing tart lime taste, but they can pack a wallop, so take it easy!

Desserts

The servings at most Mexican restaurants are generous, so there’s little room for dessert. However, if you’ve a real sweet tooth and still have room to indulge, you might order a cooling dish of sherbet or a piece of pecan praline candy. Or try a sliver of "tres leches" cake, a real gourmet treat. Flan – custard with a caramel sauce – is also frequently offered in Mexican restaurants as a tasty finale. I first became acquainted with this Spanish taste-treat when I lived in Madrid, Spain, back in the 60s. It's a delicious dessert!

MEXICAN RESTAURANTS

Now that we’ve discussed the "what" to order, let’s talk about "where" to find some of these wonderful Mexican dishes. If you're staying in the downtown area, you can try Mexican food at many restaurants, ranging from very upscale to fast food cafes. If you have your own transportation, or if you are willing to spring for a short taxi ride, several outstanding restaurants just a few blocks from downtown San Antonio offer excellent dining choices. Since more locals than tourists eat at places away from downtown, traveling a short distance will add a little "local color" to your dining experience.

Special note: At some of these restaurants, Mariachi musicians come around to your table and offer to play for your party. They are very entertaining, and you might enjoy this. Just be aware that they expect to be paid for their stint at your table. They earn their living by entertaining diners, so settle on a price before you ask them to sing.

Cadillac Bar
212 South Flores Street
Just behind the big Justice Building
210.223.5533

A favorite place of mine, Cadillac Bar is popular with the locals, especially the courthouse crowd. Just a block from San Fernando Cathedral, the restaurant is housed in an old building that has often been used as a movie set. The long bar is just as shiny as it was a century ago! Wonderful Margaritas and Ramos gin fizz drinks are served up here, and there’s a great, reasonable, noon buffet served everyday. The patio in back is great for partying and listening to live music.

Casa Rio
430 E. Commerce
210.225.6718

On the San Antonio River Walk, you'll find the oldest of the riverside establishments – over fifty years in the same location. You can dine outside at tables shaded by umbrellas and share your crumbs with friendly pigeons as you watch the tourists ride up and down the river on the barges. Or you can select an inside table in the air-conditioned restaurant.

El Mercado
514 West Commerce
210.207.8600

If you like to shop as well as sup, you can ride the trolley all the way down to the Mexican Market. There’s always been some sort of market at this location, but now vendors sell mostly arts and crafts, Mexican blankets, straw goods, tee shirts, and wearing apparel instead of fruit and vegetables. You will find several buildings crammed with tempting souvenirs to buy and take home, as well as a few good places to eat. There is a food court in one of the buildings facing San Saba Street, where you can pick up snack food and eat at one of the convenient tables in the central court area. Or, you might choose one of the old traditional Mexican restaurants on Produce Row – Mi Tierra or La Margarita – described below.

El Mirador
722 South St. Mary’s
210.225.9444

If you have your own transportation, or if you are willing to spring for a short taxi ride, there are several outstanding restaurants just a few blocks from downtown San Antonio. There are all excellent dining choices, and more locals eat there than tourists, if you’d like to get a little "local color." Just across Durango Street, is El Mirador, a popular local dining place that offers casual dining during the daytime and becomes a bit more upscale at night. It has an attractive atmosphere and reliably good food.

La Fogata
2427 Vance Jackson
210.340.1337
http://www.lafogata.com

Owned by the same folks that own Tomatillo's, this charming place offers food that is consistently fresh and always delicious. Patios with fountains and tropical plants create a unique dining experience.

La Fonda on Main
2415 Main Street
210.733.0621

Many long time residents of San Antonio won’t go anywhere else but this famous and popular establishment, one of the city’s oldest. The old white house has been expanded and includes a lovely patio. La Fonda has served delicious food for more than 70 years.

La Fonda Oak Hills
350 Northaven Street
Just off of Loop 410 on Fredericksburg Road
210.342.8981
http://www.lafondaoakhills.com

Not a tourist place, this is a favorite choice of local residents, who enjoy the delicious fare from the fine menu.

La Margarita Restaurant and Oyster Bar
120 Produce Row
210.227.7140

Owned by the Cortez family who also owns Mi Tierra, this place seems to specialize more in fajitas, but all of their dishes are tasty. You can enjoy your meal or sip a margarita on the outdoor patio or in the air-conditioned interior.

Los Barrios
4223 Blanco
210.732.6017

A great favorite with both local diners and tourists, this family-operated establishment has received many awards and compliments from food critics all over the country. It's a "you can’t go wrong" choice. The extensive menu includes authentic Mexican as well as Tex-Mex dishes and Continental cuisine. You'll find recipes for many of their specialties and traditional Tex-Mex food in LOS BARRIOS FAMILY COOKBOOK: TEX-MEX RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF SAN ANTONIO, by co-owner Diana Barrios Trevino.

Mexican Manhattan Restaurant
110 Soledad Street, off Main Plaza
210.223.3913
http://www.mexicanmanhattan.com

In an historic area, this place is a favorite with the courthouse crowd. A lot of lawyers, judges, and clerks eat at this no-frills, reasonably-priced, great-food eatery. A patio at the rear of the restaurant faces the river. The food is always reliable. Not a lot of atmosphere, but hey, you came to EAT, didn’t you?

Mi Tierra
218 Produce Row
210.225.1262
http://www.mitierracafe.com

Famous for year-round Christmas lights, this landmark in El Mercado, which was started by the Cortez family in 1941 with only three tables, now seats 500 and proclaims "We Never Close." The restaurant features all the regular Mexican dishes I've mentioned, plus, there is a fine bakery offering freshly made "pan dulce;" translated literally this means "sweet breads." All kinds of interesting rolls and buns and pastries, Mexican shortbread type cookies, and delicious pecan pralines, sweet potato candy, and coconut candy treats are offered.

Original Mexican Restaurant
528 Riverwalk
210.224.9951
http://originalmexican.com

A local favorite on the Riverwalk pays tribute to the real original Mexican restaurant started in 1899 near the site of the modern restaurant. The typical menu items described here are offered, along with a specialty made with cabrito, young goat.

Pappasito’s Cantina
10501 IH-10 West
210.691.8974
http://www.pappasitos.com (click "About Us" to search for location)

With the look of a border town cantina, you'll find this to be the right place for a cold Tecate or tangy margarita. Try the spicy selection of Mexican fare at this friendly location.

Pico De Gallo
111 S. Leona Street
210.225.6060
http://www.pico-de-gallo.com

About a block south of the Market area stands another Cortez-owned establishment. Like Mi Tierra and La Margarita, this eatery serves good food.

Rio! Rio!
421 E. Commerce
210.226.8462
http://www.rioriocantina.com

A very fine upscale Mexican dining spot; you will enjoy the ambience of the Riverwalk as much as you do the food.

Rosario’s
910 South Alamo
210.223.1806

Just south of downtown, Rosario's is a bit on the upscale side and popular with locals.

Taco Bell
http://www.tacobell.com

More than two dozen San Antonio locations of this national chain offer good fast Mexican food choices at reasonable prices.

Taco Cabana
210.804.0990
http://www.tacocabana.com (search for locations)

A tiny San Antonio taco stand opened in 1978 has grown into a chain of more than 120 restaurants, nearly 30 of them in San Antonio. All serve fresh and tasty Mexican food surprisingly fast.

Taco Haven
1032 South Presa, about a mile south of downtown
210.533.2171

A favorite spot of mine, this friendly establishment serves a wide variety of breakfast tacos, delicious plate lunches, and dinners. The prices are moderate, and the portions and prices of the daily lunch specials will truly amaze you! Attractive and spotlessly clean, you’ll have to vie with the locals for table space. If you're a large family traveling on a limited budget, remember this place!

Tomatillos Cafe Y Cantina
3210 Broadway
210.824.3005
http://www.tomatillos.com

If your day of sightseeing centers around Brackenridge Park, with its lovely Sunken Gardens, the Zoo, and the fine Witte Museum, I suggest another favorite of mine for lunch. The food is delicious and the staff friendly and accommodating. Right at noon it might be crowded as the military crowd from Fort Sam Houston frequents it on a regular basis.

As you drive around our big, wonderful city, you are certain to discover your own special favorite from the numerous Mexican cafes and restaurants offering excellent food all over the city.

MEXICAN FLAVOR TO TAKE HOME

Before you leave San Antonio, you might just want to buy a good Mexican recipe book so you can try your hand at these great regional dishes when you get home. The H-E-B® Food Stores, locally owned for nearly 100 years, have huge supermarkets all over town. Visit one of them, and buy some Bolner’s Fiesta® Spices in the spice section. They are locally produced and will supply you with the condiments you need to prepare Tex-Mex food. They also make thoughtful gifts for friends and family back home. For instance, we wouldn’t grill a steak without a generous dash of Fiesta steak seasoning being added first! I regularly send "care packages" of Fiesta spices to my daughter who lives in Washington, D.C.

H-E-B Food Stores
http://www.heb.com

Find the location and hours of more than 40 San Antonio store by clicking on "Your Local H-E-B."

Bolner's Fiesta Spices
http://www.fiestaspices.com

I hope you will enjoy your San Antonio visit and a real "Taste of Texas" as well!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Docia Williams, with family roots deep in Texas history, has been a tour guide in San Antonio for nearly four decades. She has written several books on San Antonio and Texas.

© 2003 Our Mail Network, LLC

The City of San Antonio does not warrant or guarantee the quality or condition of any of the businesses in this unique advertising format. The recommendations are based on writers' experiences and do not indicate an endorsement on the part of the city.

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